BBC Online is carrying a feature article penned or atleast narrated by an Indian Soldier about this first experiences in Kashmir. It is truly heart-felt and you can tell it was narrated or written in Hindi/Urdu rather than in English. It first aired on the BBC Urdu service. He describes his arrival in the valley for the first time, the harsh eyes that look at him with mistrust and the small ray of hope he finds in a kid who doesn't know that he is not supposed to smile and wave at army men. I would highly recommend reading it.

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